Vegan Cheese Has Grown Up: How Fermentation Is Changing Everything

Written by: Jeff Fagen

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Time to read 4 min

A lovely cheese board.

Remember Bad Vegan Cheese?

If you've been eating plant-based for more than a few years, you probably do.

It didn't quite melt.

It didn't quite stretch.

And its relationship to actual cheese sometimes seemed largely theoretical.


To be fair, vegan cheesemakers were attempting something extraordinarily difficult: recreating one of the world's most complex foods without the ingredient responsible for much of its distinctive chemistry—milk.


But something interesting has happened.


Vegan cheese has grown up.


Today's best plant-based cheesemakers aren't simply formulating something that looks like cheese. They're borrowing techniques from traditional cheesemaking itself: 

culturing, fermenting and aging.


The results can be tangy, creamy, sharp, funky and legitimately complex.


And understanding why requires a little cheese science.

Why Is Cheese So Difficult to Recreate?

Think about everything we expect cheese to do.


Cheddar should be firm when cold but soften when heated. Mozzarella needs to melt and stretch. Cream cheese should remain rich and smooth. An aged wheel should develop deeper, sharper flavors over time.


Traditional cheese accomplishes much of this through milk proteins called casein.


During cheesemaking, those proteins form a flexible structure that holds fat and water. Heat loosens that structure, allowing cheese to soften, flow and—in certain varieties—produce that glorious pizza stretch.

Take away casein and the entire architecture changes.


Early vegan cheesemakers therefore had to build a new structure from scratch.

Stack of aged cheese wheels.

Vegan Cheese 1.0: The Starch-and-Oil Era

Many commercial vegan cheeses have relied on combinations of vegetable oils, starches, gums, emulsifiers and flavorings.


And there's nothing inherently wrong with that.


Oil provides richness. Starch provides structure. Gums help hold everything together.


But a starch-and-oil matrix doesn't behave exactly like a protein network. Heat it and you may get softness—but not necessarily the melt, stretch and mouthfeel people associate with dairy cheese.


That's why food scientists continue experimenting with plant proteins, fats, starches and processing techniques to get closer.


Meanwhile, some cheesemakers have gone in a different direction.


Instead of asking:

How do we manufacture something that behaves like cheese?


They're asking:

What if we actually make cheese—just without the dairy?

Enter Fermentation

Humans have been fermenting food for thousands of years:

Bread. Wine. Kimchi. Yogurt. Cheese.


Fermentation uses microorganisms to transform food, creating acids and aromatic compounds that can dramatically change flavor, aroma and texture.


In cheese, those transformations help create what our brains interpret as cheesy:

Tang. Funk. Sharpness. Complexity. Depth.


Plant-based cheesemakers are applying similar principles to nuts, seeds and other plant ingredients.


Rather than relying solely on flavorings to imitate cheese, they allow cultures and time to help create it.


That's a major shift.

Cultured vs. Conventional Vegan Cheese

Next time you're staring at the dairy-free case, there's a useful distinction to make.


Conventional Vegan Cheese

Usually engineered primarily for functionality.


Think:

Slices • Shreds • Pizza • Grilled cheese

Plant fats, starches and stabilizers help reproduce the behavior of familiar everyday cheese.


Cultured Plant-Based Cheese

Built more like traditional artisan cheese.


Think:

Cultures • Fermentation • Aging • Flavor development


Neither is inherently "better." A great melting mozzarella and an aged cultured wheel are solving completely different culinary problems.

But if you haven't tried fermented plant-based cheese recently, you may be surprised by how sophisticated it's become.

A Cheesemaker Worth Watching

One company embracing this old-meets-new approach is Harris & Ruddock.


Rather than treating plant-based cheese as futuristic food technology, they're looking backward to traditional slow-food techniques—and applying them without dairy.


Their cheese spreads use dairy-free cultures, while their artisan wheels are cultured and aged for four weeks to develop flavor and texture.


The lineup ranges from Black Onyx and Pepper Jack aged wheels to spreads such as Caramelized Garlic & Chive and Wild Mushroom & Truffle Oil.


It's a great example of where the category is headed: less emphasis on creating a "substitute" and more emphasis on simply creating something delicious.


And we have a feeling you'll be hearing more about Harris & Ruddock very soon.

The Other Great Challenge: The Melt

Fermentation can create extraordinary flavor.


But vegan cheese still has another nemesis:

The melt.


Researchers are studying how plant proteins, fats and starches interact to create structures that loosen and flow under heat more like dairy cheese.


The goal isn't merely something that becomes soft.


It's that elusive combination of melt + stretch + satisfying mouthfeel.


That's what makes vegan cheese such an interesting category right now. The problem isn't completely solved—and we're essentially tasting the experiments as they happen.

Pizza slice showing cheese stretching.

Is Vegan Cheese Actually Healthy?

Here's where a little nuance matters.


Vegan doesn't automatically mean healthy.


Some dairy-free cheeses can be high in saturated fat and sodium while providing relatively little protein. Others use nuts, seeds or legumes and have very different nutritional profiles.


Instead of judging a product by the word "vegan," check:


  • Primary ingredients

  • Protein

  • Saturated fat

  • Sodium

  • Added starches

  • Serving size

And remember: cheese doesn't have to be a multivitamin.

Sometimes its job is simply to make dinner delicious.

Vegancuts Kitchen

Build a Plant-Based Cheese Board Nobody Will Call "The Vegan One"

The ultimate test of artisan plant-based cheese?


Don't hide it. Put it in the middle of the table.


Start With Three Personalities


Something creamy:
A cultured garlic-and-herb or mushroom spread.

Something bold:
An aged pepper-style wheel.

Something smoky:
A deeply flavored aged cheese.


Add Something Sweet

Fresh figs • Grapes • Pears • Dried apricots • Fig preserves


Add Something Sharp

Cornichons • Pickled onions • Whole-grain mustard • Marinated olives


Bring the Crunch

Seeded crackers • Toasted baguette • Almonds • Candied walnuts


Add One Surprise

Dark chocolate • Chili jam • Roasted grapes


The secret isn't making a great vegan cheese board.

It's making a great cheese board that happens to be vegan.

Cheese board.

From Substitute to Something Worth Seeking Out

For years, much of plant-based food was defined by substitution.


Make a burger without beef.


Milk without cows.


Cheese without dairy.


But the most interesting products emerging today are beginning to develop identities of their own.


An aged plant-based wheel doesn't have to perfectly impersonate cheddar to be delicious. 

A fermented mushroom-and-truffle spread doesn't need a dairy equivalent to justify its existence.


Perhaps that's the clearest sign vegan cheese has grown up.


We're beginning to judge it not simply by how accurately it copies something else—

but by whether we'd genuinely like another bite.


At Vegancuts, that's exactly the kind of plant-based innovation we love discovering.

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